Jordan P (MD)

Jumping Spider Help and Advice

Jumping Spider Help and Advice

Before we begin discussing the responsibilities involved in caring for a pet jumping spider, there are a few intriguing facts that you should be aware of.

After having jumping spiders as pets for a long time, one may frequently overlook the fact that certain fundamental aspects and knowledge about them, which experienced keepers consider as obvious, may not be as apparent to beginners.

I have gathered a collection of common inquiries, subjects, information, and interesting peculiarities about jumping spiders, which you might be unaware of or already familiar with.

In the future, I intend to delve deeper into each of these topics and provide a comprehensive explanation for each one. However, for now, I will provide brief and elementary answers to introduce you to these concepts, particularly if you are unfamiliar with the fascinating realm of jumping spiders.


If you have any inquiries or if you desire further information about a particular subject, or if you currently have jumping spiders and recall an important detail from when you initially began, which you wished had been explained in greater depth, then please contact me. I would be delighted to include it in this article for others to read and gain knowledge from. Remember, there are no silly questions, topics, or assumptions. At some point in our lives, we were all newcomers to jumping spiders or owning a pet. As we gain knowledge and experience in animal care, our ability to take care of them improves. So, it's important to keep learning by asking questions, even if you're only asking yourself.

1. Size of jumping spiders varies due to factors such as species, diet, genetics, and age. 2. Inclusion or exclusion of leg span in measurements causes confusion and variations in measurement methods. 3. The Hyllus genus houses the biggest jumping spiders, growing up to 4cm, while the smallest can be just 1mm. 4. Phiddipus Regius, most frequently bred in the UK, measures approximately 15mm in size. 5. The size of jumping spiders can vary slightly depending on their specific location. 6. Female jumping spiders are typically larger than males, possessing a rounder posterior. 7. Males have a more athletic physique with slightly longer front legs. 8. The adopted measurement method takes into account the leg span of jumping spiders.


Regrettably, the owners of jumping spiders are inevitably disappointed by their relatively short lifespan, which fails to match the duration one would typically spend with a companion such as a dog or cat, making them hesitant towards keeping these arachnids.

Typically, males reach maturity at a faster rate compared to females, and their average lifespan usually falls between 18 months to 2 years. However, due to advancements in our understanding and improved care of spiders in captivity, we are now witnessing a growing number of spiders exceeding this average lifespan and living longer.

At present, I possess individuals of both genders who are older than 2 years. Despite being categorized as advanced in age, they remain physically active, consume food satisfactorily, and show no indications of experiencing difficulties or possessing a substandard quality of life.

To ensure their growth is not accelerated and they mature at a normal rate, it is important not to excessively feed them, which would result in more frequent moults.

Many spider owners unintentionally overfeed their pets, wrongly assuming that their spiders require food every few days, when in actuality these creatures can survive for weeks without eating.


Jumping spiders have a preference for living in elevated areas such as trees and buildings, indicating their arboreal nature. Being positioned at a higher elevation provides them with a favorable observation post for capturing their prey and executing surprise assaults. Additionally, it ensures that they are safe from numerous predators residing at ground level who would readily consider a jumping spider as a tasty snack. Living at a higher elevation enables them to identify potential threats from predators well in advance, well before they become a cause of concern.


Jumping spiders have a preference for living in elevated areas such as trees and buildings, indicating their arboreal nature. We recommend utilizing a vibrant LED light for 12 hours per day within their enclosure to imitate the natural sunlight they would receive if they were living in their native habitat. Similar to us, they need daylight for vision and to energize their bodies and minds in order to wake up, search for food, and carry out their daily spider tasks.

Sex dimorphism

Most jumping spiders exhibit sexual dimorphism, which means that once they reach maturity, males and females differ in coloration, often in size, and also have distinct variations in body shape and parts.

If you know how to identify the characteristics, some species can be determined as male or female as early as at the L5 stage. However, there are certain spiders that enjoy keeping us uncertain until the last moment, and even then, some may initially appear to be of the opposite gender.

What are the differences in care between males and females?

Unless you intend to breed them, there are no significant reasons. The sole distinction lies in their behaviour and whether or not a female is producing an egg-sac (regardless of fertility). Nevertheless, when it comes to being mere companion pets, the requirements for their care are identical.

I plan on writing an article about the differences in their behaviour, as it is a captivating subject that requires in-depth exploration and can generate lengthy discussions.

How skittish are they?

Despite being capable of jumping about 50 times their own distance, these creatures tend to scuttle along the walls of their enclosures rather than jumping around when they are kept in captivity. If necessary, they will attack their prey during feeding time, and if they have sufficient space outside their enclosure, they will attempt to leap from one object to another if it appears to be within their grasp.

Frequently, I permit the spiders I interact with to leap between my hands, or I place them on my large monstera plants which they appear to take pleasure in using as a form of jungle gym. They hop from leaf to leaf, lower themselves down by their rear ends for a brief rappel to lower leaves before leaping back up to the top. Occasionally, they even jump onto me, causing my heart rate to increase and testing my ability to swiftly catch them.

Women can lay eggs, regardless of whether they are in a relationship or not.

1. Mature female spiders can lay eggs even if they have never encountered a male spider.
2. This fact was discovered by the author after starting to keep jumpers as pets, despite not finding this information in online research on spider care.
3. Female spiders that have never mated with a male will lay eggs that cannot develop into offspring.
4. After laying the eggs, the female spider will either consume or abandon them and return to her typical behavior within a few weeks.
5. Female spiders can retain sperm for up to twelve months after mating, and a single mating episode can produce as many as ten viable egg-sacs.


1. Jumping spiders have unique hunting abilities that set them apart from other true spiders and tarantulas, who typically employ conventional web-building strategies to capture prey.

2. True spiders wait for passing creatures to get trapped in their web, while tarantulas patiently wait for their prey and then carry it back to their burrow.

3. Jumping spiders, however, actively search for food and have exceptional vision and physical power to capture prey significantly larger than themselves.

4. They rely on their hunting skills for enrichment and exercise, and hand-feeding them in their nest is advised against to prevent boredom and deprivation of stimulation.

5. Jumping spiders have been observed successfully capturing lizards and frogs in their natural habitat, showcasing their extraordinary hunting abilities.


1. Jumping spiders have impressive eyesight that is only 5-10 times less than a human's.

2. They have 8 eyes, with each pair serving a different purpose, including providing nearly a 360-degree view.

3. The front two pairs of eyes give them a narrow but clear image in HD color, while the side pairs provide a black and white, blurry image.

4. The side pairs of eyes detect movement and shadows, prompting the spider to turn and get a better look with its front pairs.

5. Their eyesight is essential for spotting, stalking, and hunting down prey.

6. The article offers a more in-depth explanation of their eyesight capabilities.

7. The eyesight of jumping spiders is remarkable considering their small size.

8. Their impressive eyesight contributes to their ability to be efficient hunters.

Can they be handled

1. Spider's tolerance to handling depends on the individual spider.

2. Their paws are incredibly sensitive and can feel temperature, airflow, direction, movement, and vibrations, and possibly even feel the blood pumping through our veins.

3. Handling a spider may feel like a train passing by to the spider.

4. Some spiders will never tolerate handling, while others may become accustomed to it over time.

5. Jumping spiders do not need to be handled to live happy, healthy lives.

6. They are content in their habitats as long as their basic care requirements are met.

7. Some spiders are "look but don't touch," while others can be handled, but it's their choice.

8. Jumping spiders are fascinating to own and can be admired through the walls of their enclosure.

Spider Care Guide

1. The text provides basic care information for the most common pet jumping spider in the UK, the Phidippus species, specifically the Phidippus Regius.

2. The Regius come from different locales such as Florida, Bahama, Isla Juventud, and Blue Mountains, which means they come from different places in the world.

3. Most species of jumping spiders can live in a similar setup as each other, but it's important to check the temperatures and humidity levels in their specific country of origin and try to keep close to those. 4. The author plans to compile a list of individual species and their different requirements soon.

5. Overall, the text focuses on providing care information for the Phidippus Regius jumping spider and emphasizes the importance of understanding their specific country of origin and environmental needs.


1. Jumping spiders prefer to live in trees and should have taller enclosures to accommodate this preference.

2. Young spiders should be initially confined in a small enclosure to help them develop strength and confidence.

3. Starting with a "starter cup" enclosure until around the seventh molt stage is recommended.

4. A size of 15x15x20cm is sufficient for a sub-adult or adult jumping spider.

5. Front opening acrylic enclosures by Mantis Den are a preferred choice due to their design and ease of assembly.

6. There are alternative options for enclosures such as sweet jars, plastic storage boxes, and glass terrariums, but all enclosures should offer a safe habitat for the spider.

7. Individuals can choose enclosures based on personal preferences such as size and design.




1. Air flow, particularly cross ventilation, is critical for the well-being of jumping spiders.
2. It is important to ensure that the ventilation holes are not large enough for the spider to escape through.
3. Drafty areas can be dangerous for jumping spiders, so it is essential to avoid placing them in such locations.
4. While good air circulation is crucial, it is equally important to maintain high air quality for the spiders.
5. Air fresheners, scented candles, and other home fragrance devices can be fatal to jumping spiders.
6. Cigarette smoke, e-cigarettes, and vaping smoke should also be avoided around jumping spiders.
7. Maintaining a safe and healthy air environment is vital for the well-being of jumping spiders.

Doors & Access

1. Access to the enclosure is crucial for feeding, maintenance, and emergencies.
2. Top-opening enclosures can disrupt the spider's web and pose a risk during molting, so front or side opening ones are preferable.
3. Smaller enclosures are advised for younger or more nervous spiders to aid in feeding and stability.
4. Spiders should not be purchased under L4/4th instar for their safety and well-being.
5. Young spiders may struggle to catch prey and maintain stability in larger enclosures.
6. Falling is common for young spiders as they are still learning and developing.
7. Once they become more confident, spiders are able to catch prey successfully in any size enclosure.


Another factor to take into account is the temperature requirement of most Phidippus species. Since they are tropical species that are not well adapted to the natural climate in the UK, especially during winter, it is important to consider the habitat conditions they need. This subject is a matter of ongoing discussion within the hobby, and individuals often refer to the guideline of "If you find a temperature that feels comfortable, then it should be suitable for them." In my opinion, I do not agree with this because, as I mentioned earlier, tropical species have different temperature preferences and tolerances, just like humans have varying preferences for temperature. Even though I could be sitting at home during the coldest part of winter, with the temperature inside the house at just 14 degrees, and even with a window open, I would still find myself perspiring!' In my opinion, it is a very simple decision to connect a heat mat to a thermostat, even if the heat mat rarely needs to be activated. Make sure to verify the suggested temperature and humidity limits suitable for your particular spider species, but generally, they thrive the most at approximately 25 degrees Celsius in the daytime and can tolerate a decrease to 22 degrees Celsius at night.

There are individuals who choose to store their spiders in environments with normal temperatures and they claim that their spiders are alive and have been living in such colder conditions for a significant period. Indeed, certain spiders can endure chilly temperatures, but they will never truly flourish, and their overall well-being will always be slightly compromised compared to those not required to struggle for warmth. Keep in mind that these species are native to tropical regions, so it is our duty to make an effort to replicate their natural environment as accurately as possible. An added advantage of having a heat mat is that it aids in maintaining a humidity level of approximately 70%, which is preferred by the subject. To obtain precise measurements of the humidity levels, you have the option of purchasing a hydrometer.

It is crucial not to place the heat mat inside the enclosure, beneath the enclosure, or in direct contact with the enclosure when using it. You can place the mat either behind or to the side of the wall or shelf where you store your spider, leaving some space in between. The purpose of this is to avoid applying heat directly and enable your spider to freely navigate towards or away from the warm side within its enclosure, allowing it to locate the ideal spot where the temperature is most suitable and comfortable for it.

It is essential to obtain a thermostat along with any electric heating equipment to regulate the temperature. I have come across a few extremely distressing incidents where individuals failed to install a thermostat, resulting in various severe outcomes. These include instances such as pets suffering from extreme dehydration and overheating, individuals being subjected to fatal temperatures, and the most drastic situation being the complete destruction of the house due to fire. I might be exaggerating, but these heat mats have the potential to become extremely hot if they are constantly operated at maximum power. I understand that thermostats can be costly, but it is a small investment to make sure that you don't accidentally harm your spider or, in the worst case scenario, cause a fire in your house.

Thermostats operate by connecting them to your electrical outlet, after which the heat mat is connected to the thermostat allowing you to set a specific temperature threshold such as 25 degrees Celsius. Next, place the small temperature probe in the space between the heat mat and the enclosure to enable it to monitor and measure the temperature accurately. The heat mat will be automatically turned off by the thermostat once the temperature rises above 25 degrees. Afterwards, once the sensor identifies that the temperature has fallen below 25 degrees, it will activate the heat mat again without human intervention. This way, it guarantees that your spider maintains the ideal temperature throughout the day and night, regardless of your presence at home, and prevents any possibility of overheating or causing a fire in your house.


This is a common misconception that frequently occurs and is also one of the primary causes for a spider being inactive, refusing to eat, and appearing melancholic as they spend their time nestled in a web hammock. People often fail to fully comprehend the extent to which these small creatures enjoy and require brightness. Due to their unique and highly advanced eyesight compared to other spider species, they rely on light as a crucial aid for hunting and capturing their prey. Additionally, light acts as a source of stimulation, encouraging them to actively engage in hunting and fulfill their daily spider responsibilities. Every day, you will frequently observe your spider bathing in the sunlight and enjoying a small sunbath. No matter how bright you believe the natural light in your house is, it is essential to have a LED light installed above your spider's enclosure for 12 hours daily. 


When it comes to the food choices of jumping spiders, there are various options available. Most of the time, maintaining a healthy balance between what the owner is comfortable with and what the spider requires becomes crucial. Bear in mind that no matter what kind of nourishment you choose for your spider, it will exclusively consist of live food, which means it will require a separate care routine alongside your spider. Certain things require very little space or maintenance, while other things will require their own enclosures in addition to food and bedding.

We should keep in mind that a spider will derive greater benefits from consuming a feeder insect that is healthier and well-nourished. The notable power possessed by these small spiders enables them to overpower prey that is considerably larger than themselves. Nevertheless, I advise against feeding anything larger than your spider's abdomen. Jumping spiders are flexible eaters, and if they were in their natural habitat, they would not decline an effortless meal, even if they had eaten just the previous day. It is effortless to overfeed captive bred spiders due to their retained instinct. Feeding your spider excessively has numerous adverse consequences on their wellbeing, particularly causing a significant reduction in their already brief lifespan. Another significant reason for feeding in moderation is that when they eat, their bellies become more prominent and swollen, to the point that some of them appear as if they are about to burst. If they were to experience a fall or a blow to their abdomen, it could actually cause a rupture, leading to their death.

The frequency of feeding your spider is determined by factors such as its size, species, and the type of prey you are providing. In general, I have a simple guideline which suggests that when spiders are no longer in their web hammock and are actively exploring their enclosure, it typically indicates that they are hungry and may benefit from a meal, as long as their abdomen has fully recovered from their previous feeding. It is important not to compel your spider to eat while it is resting in its web hammock since that is their designated refuge where they seek relaxation and solitude.

Another common mistake people make is when they feed their spider using tweezers. Jumping spiders have a great passion for hunting, and they are incredibly skilled at it. The approach of spiders towards hunting can vary, with some choosing to observe their prey before attacking, while others opt to immediately launch an attack. This behavior is determined by the individual spider. Providing them with the opportunity to hunt as they would in their natural habitat offers them with enrichment and mental stimulation. Therefore, when it comes to feeding, I suggest placing the prey item within the spider's line of sight and allowing them to handle the rest independently. I believe that tweezing food is acceptable only in certain situations: when very young spiders are transitioning to larger prey, when injured spiders require assistance, and when very old spiders struggle with hunting.


Here is a simple explanation of some of the foods I have fed to my group of jumpers, along with their advantages and disadvantages. I will eventually publish a detailed manual on feeder insects, which will provide advice on their care as well as instructions on breeding them. This way, you can cut down on expenses by not having to purchase new insects every few weeks. I have not personally utilized other types of insects for feeding, so I am not comfortable offering information about them since I lack first hand experience. If you're not interested in trying any of the things I've suggested, my recommendation is to reach out to the Facebook communities for jumping spider enthusiasts and seek advice from other people who keep them.